Monday, 27 June 2011

Christopher Kane Resort Collection 2012

This is probably one of the best Resort collections that I've seen this year, from one of the best designers of our time. Christopher Kane's Resort collections are the annual clandestine sensation. Remember the galaxy printed dresses last year? Now everything's gone intergalactic.
This year, there are almost no words to describe this collection. Almost. Apart from- colourful. And loud, vibrant, intense, alive, kaleidoscopic and well, just downright brilliant. See for yourself.

Saturday, 25 June 2011

Andrej Pejic

Long flowing blonde hair, voluptuous lips and a lean frame- just a typical supermodel template. But this latest rising star is not your standard model. Andrej Pejic is the world's first transgender supermodel.
Andrej on the cover of L'Officiel Ukraine June 2011
Born in Bosnia and Herzegovina, his family emigrated to Australia when the Bosnian war broke out in the Nineties. Now on the covers of some of the most acclaimed magazines in the world, Pejic was apparently scouted working in his local McDonald's only two years ago, aged 17. His modelling career took off when the audiences of the Paris menswear shows in June 2010 began questioning who the blonde girl was. "They asked Raf Simmons if he was doing womenswear now" said Pejic. Recently, he modelled both the womenswear and menswear collections for Lino Villaventura at Sao Paolo Fashion Week. The only difference was that this time, everyone knew his name.
Carbon Copy June 2011
Carbon Copy June 2011
Pejic is fast-becoming a favourite amongst the most established designers- he famously walked for Jean Paul Gaultier this January wearing an iconic ruffled wedding dress (which Rihanna later wore at The Grammy's) and stars in the provocative Gaultier S/S 11 advertisements with Karolina Kurkova and the summery-looking Marc Jacobs S/S 11 campaigns. He has also worked several times for Vogue from the Paris edition to the Turkish edition, and has worked with prestigious photographers including Stephen Meisel. And he is still only 19 years old.

Jean Paul Gaultier S/S 2011 Ad Campaign

Marc Jacobs S/S 2011 Ad Campaign
However, despite all his success on the catwalks and the campaigns, Pejic has suffered some backlash from the ignorant 'alpha-male' society. When Pejic was voted the 98th Sexiest Woman in the world by FHM magazine this year, the magazine ran a subline with insulting remarks including "pass the sick bucket" when explaining Pejic's desire to be a Victoria's Secret model. "He might have a hard time keeping it a secret" they wrote. They also said "designers are hailing him as the next big thing. We think "thing" is quite accurate".  FHM has since issued an official apology to Pejic, claiming that the article wasn't subbed before going online. The significant thing about it all is that FHM is one of the most popular men's magazines in the world and therefore has the ability to mould millions of men's minds, influence their opinions and ultimately, create what is the acceptable 'standard' of beauty. To oppress Pejic in this way is transphobic and direspectful. It makes it seem okay within our culture to vilify someone for their aspirations and their career just because they were born with or without boobs.
In fact, writing this post just after the post on John Galliano on trial for racist remarks has made me feel quite disenchanted with the fashion world and the land of magazines just now. As wonderful and exotic as it may seem, your career should never excuse you from ignorance. To be held in high regard by the public should be a deterrent for people who want to spout toxic nonsense about issues like these.

"How Many Lies" in BMM Magazine S/S 11

"How Many Lies" in BMM Magazine S/S 11 
Beauty should never be based wholly on anything like gender, race, religion or background. These are things that we are not responsible for and can't choose for ourselves. Of course, while what you think beautiful may not be the same as what the next person does, it isn't fair to neglect someone on the basis of any of the above grounds. Just because the men who voted for Pejic in the World's Sexiest poll actually found another man attractive, doesn't mean they're gay. Just like looking at the picture of him naked bar a pair of gloves in the "How Many Lies" shoot for BMM magazine doesn't make you gay either. Although it may confuse people at first glance, the fact is that he is beautiful whether you like him or not.

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Jan 11
Aside from that matter, what makes Pejic so outstanding and different is his unique look, which so wildly contrasts with the typical male model look. Usually the mens shows are full of rugged, masculine men with biceps and stubbly beards. Pejic instead, is delicate and slight. He has spawned the term "femiman" and has since become poster-boy for the androgynous trend. He has blurred the thick black lines of gender identity by being male yet female too. He has never spoken of his sexuality, preferring not to label it, nor himself. He can wear heels better than some of the female models, is unafraid of wearing several tonnes of makeup and has won a lot of respect for his versatility in his field- all in all, Pejic works hard for a teenager, especially one who has divided the world's opinions on beauty. In the words of Andrej himself, fashion knows no gender boundaries- and in such a special environment, thats the way it should be.

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2012

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2012

Wednesday, 22 June 2011

John Galliano on trial

As you all know, Blogger is experiencing some slightly annoying technical difficulties today regarding uploading photographs, so bear with me. 

We've all seen the video. We've all witnessed his consequential downfall. And today at John Galliano's trial, he admitted the demons which drove him. He was addicted to alcohol and prescription drugs.

Today, in the same building where Marie Antoinette was sentenced to death (the Palais de Justice in Paris), Galliano stood accused of "public insults based on origin, religious affiliation, race or ethnicity".
    His outbursts, of which there are apparently three on separate occasions, include "I love Hitler" and "People like you would be dead today. Your mothers, your forefathers, would all be gassed", which can be heard on the now notorious online video. He is also accused of calling a receptionist an "Asian bastard".
    Galliano has apologised profusely for the remarks, even revealing that he is of Jewish decent. He has also undergone rehabilitation in the Arizona desert and has apparently been clean for three months as a result. He reportedly told the court today- "I have an addiction. I am a recovering alcoholic, a recovering addict." 

The thing is, as much as I adore Galliano (and I do. I believe Dior lost a true genius) there is no excuse for racism, whether it was uttered whilst under the influence or not. There is no room in our society today for any sort of prejudice, least of all in the fast-forward, trend-setting society that is fashion. The biggest question in this story is, will Galliano be acquitted and restore his reputation as fashion's king of eccentricity? Just recently, celebrity hairdresser James Brown also blamed excessive drinking for his racist comments made at the Bafta's. Will laying the blame on alcohol and drugs let them get away with it? Because it certainly wouldn't if it were normal people in the courtrooms.

What do you guys think?

Tuesday, 21 June 2011

Love Moschino Pre-Collection A/W 2011-2012

I just discovered the hidden gem that is the Love Moschino Pre-Collection A/W
The stand-out piece for me, are the printed jeans. In fact, what I like most about this collection is the repeated use of this rich, silky print. It adds a pop of colour underneath the Autumn-y khaki tones and clashes so well with the plaid prints and the stripes. The print is not completely identical- there are several subtle variations of it in jean, blazer, skirt, top, handbag and scarf form. But they are all absolutely delicious.
Apart from the silky print, which most of the pictures here include, there is also a heavy 70's vibe to the collection, with lots of fringing, patchwork denim, browns and beiges. Again, its the luxurious pattern to the material that makes it so desirable- the striped fringed jacket in the final picture is amazing.
The final part of the collection loses the 'county girl' feeling that you can see in the first half. Instead, it has a heavy lace influence, suggesting lace tights, not opaques, will be our best friends come Autumn. 
Overall, it's a beautiful collection, and the most striking part is the different textures and materials used, particularly the expensive-looking vintage silk print.

 Check out the amazing printed dresses on their online store (I've not shown them here, but they are to die for). And if you're lucky enough to be loaded, the Moschino online store currently has a 50% sale!

Sunday, 19 June 2011

Yellow Nails

Usually, having yellow nails is a sign of a nasty smoking habit, but that was way back BC (Before Chanel). This summer, forget the french manicures- bright yellow nails are a necessity, and its all because of this one nail polish-

The Chanel Le Vernis in Mimosa, released last year, was madly anticipated all around the world- it sold out literally within minutes of going on sale. And being limited edition (and $25), its unlikely that I'll ever get my hands on any. (Or any on my hands..) So, I looked out for some similar colours, which wasn't hard as thanks to Mimosa, yellow nail varnish is now everywhere, including the fingertips of some fellow Chanel-worshipping celebrities. Katy Perry, who is known for her love of unusual nail art, started the craze with a blue and yellow clash at the MTV Movie Awards. Then, Lady Gaga went yellow at the Grammy's, D&G and Marc Jacobs' A/W catwalk models went yellow and the hardcore nail-lovers among us went mad.

Unfortunately, as with all worthwhile fashion fads, yellow nail polish is difficult to get right. It definitely looks better on darker or tanned skin. I'm personally really pale (milk-bottle) and so the colour wasn't as shocking on me as I'd have liked. Application should be careful- it can look streaky, so I'd recommend a third coat. Also, watch out for the cheap ones- some polishes can leave nails stained. Finally, make sure your shade is as bright as possible- this is probably the one and only trend where neon is acceptable. When done properly, its the perfect summery look.

Citrus-tipped celebrities:

Katy Perry
Gwen Stefani
AnnaLynne McCord
Let me know what you think about yellow nails and if you've tried out this trend!